THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO SNEAKER SOLES

CHOOSING THE RIGHT FOUNDATION: WHAT SOLE CONSTRUCTION TELLS YOU ABOUT A SNEAKER BEFORE YOU BUY IT

THE SOLE IS THE MOST HONEST PART OF ANY SNEAKER. IT CANNOT BE DRESSED UP. IT MEETS THE GROUND ON EVERY STEP AND WEARS ACCORDINGLY. WHAT IT IS MADE FROM AND HOW IT IS ATTACHED TELLS YOU MORE ABOUT THE SNEAKER'S INTENTIONS THAN ANY OTHER SINGLE ELEMENT.

GLUED VERSUS BUILT TO BE RESOLED

THE MOST IMPORTANT QUESTION ABOUT ANY SOLE IS NOT WHAT IT IS MADE FROM. IT IS HOW IT IS ATTACHED. MOST SNEAKERS ARE GLUED. THE UPPER AND SOLE ARE BONDED WITH ADHESIVE UNDER HEAT AND PRESSURE. IT IS FAST, CHEAP AND PERMANENT. WHEN THE SOLE FAILS, THE SNEAKER IS FINISHED.

A SNEAKER BUILT TO BE RESOLED IS MADE DIFFERENTLY. THE SOLE IS ATTACHED SO THAT IT CAN BE REMOVED AND REPLACED RATHER THAN BONDED PERMANENTLY TO THE UPPER. WHEN THE OUTSOLE WEARS THROUGH, A COBBLER REMOVES IT AND FITS A NEW ONE. THE UPPER, THE INSOLE, THE LEATHER SHAPED TO THE FOOT OVER YEARS OF WEAR, ALL OF IT PRESERVED.

RUBBER, LEATHER AND CREPE

DENSE RUBBER COMPOUND WEARS SLOWLY, HOLDS ITS PROFILE AND IS THE CORRECT SPECIFICATION FOR A LUXURY SNEAKER DESIGNED TO BE WORN IN VARIED CONDITIONS OVER MANY YEARS. NOT ALL RUBBER IS THE SAME: DENSE COMPOUND FROM A SERIOUS SUPPLIER PERFORMS FUNDAMENTALLY DIFFERENTLY FROM THE CELLULAR MATERIAL IN A MASS PRODUCED SOLE.

LEATHER SOLES BREATHE, FLEX CORRECTLY WITH THE FOOT AND DEVELOP A PATINA THAT MIRRORS THE DEVELOPMENT OF THE UPPER. THEY REQUIRE MAINTENANCE BUT LAST INDEFINITELY ON A SNEAKER BUILT TO BE RESOLED. CREPE OFFERS SOFTNESS AND WARMTH UNDERFOOT AND IS VALUED BY THOSE WHO HAVE EXPERIENCED ITS SPECIFIC QUALITY OF CONTACT WITH THE GROUND.

HOW TO READ A SOLE

HOLD THE SNEAKER AND LOOK AT THE PERIMETER WHERE UPPER MEETS SOLE. EVIDENCE OF STITCHING AT THE PERIMETER INDICATES A SOLE THAT CAN BE REMOVED AND REPLACED. ONLY A CLEAN BONDED EDGE INDICATES ADHESIVE. FLEX THE SOLE: DENSE RUBBER HAS A SPECIFIC DENSITY AND RETURN. CELLULAR COMPOUND COMPRESSES EASILY AND DOES NOT RETURN CLEANLY.

AT 1812, SOLE SPECIFICATIONS ARE CHOSEN FOR LONGEVITY AND RESOLEABILITY. THE SOLE IS BUILT TO BE REPLACED. THE SNEAKER IS BUILT TO LAST.