THE ANATOMY OF A MEN'S SNEAKER

THE COMPONENTS OF A WELL MADE SNEAKER, WHAT EACH ONE DOES, AND HOW TO READ CONSTRUCTION QUALITY BEFORE YOU BUY

A SNEAKER IS A SYSTEM.

EVERY COMPONENT HAS A ROLE. EVERY ROLE AFFECTS EVERY OTHER. UNDERSTANDING THE ANATOMY OF A WELL MADE SNEAKER IS THE FIRST STEP TOWARD UNDERSTANDING WHY SOME SNEAKERS ARE WORTH INVESTING IN AND OTHERS ARE NOT, AND WHY THE DIFFERENCE IS RARELY VISIBLE AT THE POINT OF PURCHASE.

THE LAST

THE LAST IS THE SOLID FORM AROUND WHICH THE SNEAKER IS BUILT. IT DEFINES FIT, PROPORTION AND STANCE. EVERYTHING ELSE IS CONSTRUCTED IN RESPONSE TO IT. A CORRECTLY DESIGNED LAST PRODUCES A SNEAKER THAT SITS ON A FOOT WITH AUTHORITY AND EASE FROM THE FIRST WEARING. THE LAST IS REMOVED BEFORE THE SNEAKER IS FINISHED. IT IS THE MOST IMPORTANT COMPONENT AND THE ONLY ONE NOT PRESENT IN THE FINISHED PRODUCT.

THE UPPER

THE UPPER IS THE VISIBLE EXTERIOR. IT DEFINES THE CHARACTER OF THE SNEAKER AND AGES WITH THE PERSON WEARING IT. IN A CORRECTLY MADE SNEAKER, THE UPPER IS CUT FROM THE HIDE WITH ATTENTION TO GRAIN DIRECTION. EDGES ARE SKIVED WHERE PANELS OVERLAP SO JOINTS ARE SMOOTH RATHER THAN STEPPED. STITCHING IS APPLIED UNDER CONTROLLED TENSION: TOO TIGHT AND THE LEATHER PUCKERS; TOO LOOSE AND THE SEAM FAILS UNDER STRESS.

THE INSOLE

THE INSOLE IS THE PLATFORM THE FOOT RESTS ON. OVER TIME, WITH CORRECT WEAR, IT COMPRESSES AND FORMS ITSELF TO THE SPECIFIC ARCHITECTURE OF THE FOOT ABOVE IT. A WELL WORN INSOLE IN A CORRECTLY MAINTAINED SNEAKER CARRIES AN EXACT IMPRESSION OF ITS OWNER'S FOOT. IN A POORLY MADE SNEAKER, THE INSOLE IS THIN, FLAT, AND CONTRIBUTES NOTHING BEYOND THE MINIMUM.

SOLE ATTACHMENT

HOW THE OUTSOLE IS ATTACHED DETERMINES WHETHER A SNEAKER CAN BE RESOLED. IN A SNEAKER BUILT TO LAST, THE SOLE IS ATTACHED SO THAT IT CAN BE REMOVED AND REPLACED. WHEN THE OUTSOLE WEARS THROUGH, A COBBLER REMOVES THE WORN SOLE AND FITS A NEW ONE, AND THE UPPER AND INSOLE ARE PRESERVED. IN A GLUED SNEAKER THE SOLE IS BONDED PERMANENTLY TO THE UPPER. WHEN THE SOLE FAILS, THE SNEAKER IS FINISHED.

THE OUTSOLE

THE OUTSOLE CONTACTS THE GROUND. IT WEARS. DENSE RUBBER COMPOUND WEARS SLOWLY AND HOLDS ITS PROFILE. COMMODITY RUBBER COMPRESSES AND DISTORTS WITHIN MONTHS. LEATHER SOLES BREATHE, DEVELOP PATINA, AND CAN BE RESOLED INDEFINITELY ON A SNEAKER BUILT FOR IT. THE OUTSOLE SPECIFICATION IS THE MOST LEGIBLE SIGNAL OF A MAKER'S INTENTIONS.

HOW TO READ A SNEAKER BEFORE BUYING

HOLD IT. FLEX THE SOLE. LOOK AT THE PERIMETER WHERE THE UPPER MEETS THE SOLE. CHECK WHETHER THERE IS EVIDENCE OF STITCHING OR ONLY OF ADHESIVE. EXAMINE THE STITCHING ON THE UPPER UNDER REASONABLE LIGHT. ASSESS THE QUALITY AND CHARACTER OF THE LEATHER SURFACE. THESE ARE THE QUESTIONS THE COLLECTOR ASKS. THE ANSWERS ARE AVAILABLE TO ANYONE PAYING ATTENTION.

1812 MAKES EVERY COMPONENT DECISION WITH THE FINISHED SNEAKER'S LIFE IN MIND. NOTHING ARBITRARY. EVERYTHING EARNS ITS PLACE.