WHY CONSTRUCTION MATTERS
ON SNEAKER CONSTRUCTION, RESOLEABLE SNEAKERS, AND THE DECISION THAT SEPARATES WHAT LASTS FROM WHAT DOESN'T
EVERY SHOE BEGINS WITH A DECISION THE CUSTOMER NEVER SEES.
HOW THE UPPER IS ATTACHED TO THE SOLE. WHETHER THAT ATTACHMENT IS DESIGNED TO BE PERMANENT, OR DESIGNED TO BE UNDONE. WHETHER THE SHOE, WHEN THE SOLE HAS WORN THROUGH, CAN BE RESTORED, OR MUST BE DISCARDED. THIS DECISION IS MADE UPSTREAM, IN THE CONSTRUCTION SPECIFICATION, BEFORE THE LEATHER IS CUT, BEFORE THE LAST IS SELECTED, BEFORE ANYTHING VISIBLE ABOUT THE SHOE EXISTS.
MOST SHOES ARE GLUED. THE UPPER AND SOLE BONDED WITH ADHESIVE UNDER HEAT AND PRESSURE. FAST, CHEAP AND IRREVERSIBLE. WHEN THE SOLE WEARS OUT, THE SHOE IS FINISHED. THIS IS NOT AN ACCIDENT. IT IS A DESIGN DECISION.
WHAT RESOLEABLE CONSTRUCTION MEANS
A SHOE BUILT TO BE RESOLED IS CONSTRUCTED DIFFERENTLY. THE SOLE IS ATTACHED SO THAT IT CAN BE REMOVED AND REPLACED RATHER THAN BONDED PERMANENTLY TO THE UPPER. WHEN THE OUTSOLE WEARS THROUGH, A COBBLER REMOVES IT AND FITS A NEW ONE. THE UPPER, THE INSOLE, THE LEATHER FORMED TO THE FOOT OVER YEARS OF WEAR — ALL OF IT PRESERVED. ONLY WHAT HAS WORN OUT IS REPLACED.
THIS IS NOT A HERITAGE AFFECTATION. IT IS THE RATIONAL RESPONSE TO THE QUESTION OF HOW AN EXPENSIVE OBJECT SHOULD BE BUILT.
WHY MOST SNEAKERS CANNOT BE RESOLED
THE SNEAKER IN ITS MASS-PRODUCED FORM IS BUILT TO BE REPLACED. SYNTHETIC MATERIALS. ADHESIVE CONSTRUCTION. SOLE COMPOUND SELECTED FOR IMMEDIATE CUSHIONING RATHER THAN LONG-TERM WEAR. THE ENTIRE OBJECT ENGINEERED WITH A PLANNED LIFESPAN MEASURED IN MONTHS. VOLUME REQUIRES REPLACEABILITY. MARGIN REQUIRES DISPOSABILITY.
THE RESOLEABLE SNEAKER IS A DIFFERENT CATEGORY OF OBJECT. IT REQUIRES A DIFFERENT CONSTRUCTION METHOD, DIFFERENT MATERIALS, A DIFFERENT RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN THE MAKER AND THE PRODUCT'S LIFE BEYOND THE POINT OF SALE. VERY FEW MAKERS BUILD THIS WAY.
THE DISTINCTION
THE WAY TO TELL THEM APART IS NOT BY PRICE, THOUGH PRICE IS OFTEN A SIGNAL. IT IS BY ASKING HOW THE SOLE IS ATTACHED. WHETHER THE SHOE CAN BE RESOLED. WHETHER THE MAKER OFFERS A RESOLE SERVICE — WHICH IS THE CLEAREST POSSIBLE INDICATION THAT THEY BUILT THE SHOE WITH THE INTENTION OF IT LASTING LONG ENOUGH TO NEED ONE.
A MAKER WHO OFFERS TO RESOLE THEIR SHOES IS A MAKER WHO BUILT THEM TO BE WORTH RESOLING. THAT IS THE DISTINCTION. 1812 BUILDS EVERY SNEAKER TO BE RESOLED. THE CONSTRUCTION REFLECTS THE INTENTION.
