GLOSSARY OF SHOEMAKING TERMS

THE VOCABULARY OF SHOEMAKING: KEY TERMS USED IN THE MAKING AND CARE OF QUALITY SNEAKERS

A CLEAR UNDERSTANDING OF SHOEMAKING TERMINOLOGY ENHANCES APPRECIATION OF CRAFT, FIT AND CONSTRUCTION. THESE ARE THE KEY TERMS USED THROUGHOUT THE 1812 JOURNAL, DEFINED WITH PRECISION.

LAST. THE SOLID THREE-DIMENSIONAL FORM AROUND WHICH A SNEAKER IS BUILT. DEFINES FIT, PROPORTION AND SILHOUETTE. REMOVED BEFORE THE SNEAKER IS FINISHED.

UPPER. THE PART OF THE SNEAKER THAT COVERS THE FOOT, INCLUDING THE VAMP, QUARTERS AND EYELETS.

VAMP. THE FRONT SECTION OF THE UPPER COVERING THE TOES AND INSTEP.

QUARTER. THE REAR SECTION OF THE UPPER EXTENDING FROM THE HEEL TO THE MIDSECTION OF THE SNEAKER.

INSOLE. THE INTERNAL PLATFORM ON WHICH THE FOOT RESTS. COMPRESSES OVER TIME TO THE SPECIFIC ARCHITECTURE OF THE FOOT WEARING THE SNEAKER.

LASTING. THE PROCESS OF PULLING THE UPPER OVER THE LAST AND SECURING IT TO THE INSOLE, CREATING THE SNEAKER'S THREE-DIMENSIONAL FORM.

BROGUING. DECORATIVE PERFORATIONS ALONG THE SURFACE OF THE LEATHER. ORIGINALLY FUNCTIONAL DRAINAGE HOLES. NOW A MARK OF BRITISH SHOEMAKING TRADITION.

PATINA. THE NATURAL COLORATION AND SURFACE DEPTH THAT DEVELOPS ON FULL GRAIN LEATHER THROUGH CORRECT WEAR AND MAINTENANCE OVER TIME. CANNOT BE MANUFACTURED OR APPLIED. CAN ONLY BE EARNED.

TOE SPRING. THE DEGREE TO WHICH THE TOE OF THE LAST RISES FROM THE GROUND PLANE, DETERMINING HOW THE SNEAKER FLEXES WITH THE FOOT IN MOTION.

HEEL PITCH. THE ANGLE AT WHICH THE HEEL SITS ON THE LAST, AFFECTING POSTURE, WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION AND THE WEARER'S RELATIONSHIP WITH THE GROUND.

SKIVING. THINNING THE EDGE OF LEATHER PANELS BEFORE JOINING SO THE SEAM IS SMOOTH RATHER THAN STEPPED. DONE CORRECTLY, A SKIVED SEAM IS INVISIBLE IN THE FINISHED SNEAKER.