In the creation of our bellows tongue trainers, 1812 selects only the finest nubuck, sourced for its distinctive character, exceptional durability, and refined texture. This leather represents a meeting of strength and softness, making it a material of choice for discerning footwear that balances performance with understated elegance.
So what is Nubuck Leather?
Nubuck is renowned for its velvety feel, achieved through a meticulous sanding and brushing process that reveals a fine nap of short fibres. This finish results in a texture that is luxuriously soft to the touch yet resilient enough to stand the test of time. Historically, nubuck was associated with exclusivity and was often reserved for those of high social standing. Today, it remains a hallmark of quality, frequently found in fine footwear, leather goods, and select pieces of furniture.
Origins and Composition
Traditionally crafted from the hides of wild deer, modern nubuck is most often produced from full-grain or top-grain cowhide, taken from the outer layers of the hide for their durability and natural beauty. The choice between full-grain and top-grain is significant: full-grain retains all of the natural grain, offering strength and individuality, whereas top-grain undergoes light sanding to achieve a flawless finish.
Appearance and Feel
Visually, nubuck offers a refined alternative to traditional polished leather, with a matte, non-reflective surface that is instantly recognisable. When brushed, its fibres shift, subtly altering the shade and creating a dynamic surface that responds to touch. This interplay of texture and tone is part of nubuck’s enduring appeal.
Practical Qualities
While nubuck is not naturally waterproof, it possesses a degree of water resistance and, when properly cared for, maintains its appearance for years. Its breathability makes it particularly well suited to footwear, ensuring comfort through extended wear. It requires minimal upkeep, with occasional cleaning and protective treatments sufficient to preserve its character.
Nubuck Versus Suede
Though similar in feel, nubuck differs from suede in both origin and performance. Nubuck is crafted from the outer grain, giving it greater strength and thickness, whereas suede is made from the inner layer and is more prone to scuffing. The result is that nubuck retains a more refined appearance over time, making it the superior choice for premium footwear.
The Role of Colour
Nubuck takes colour beautifully, allowing a broad palette of tones that can be tailored to suit the design vision. In the 1812 collection, this versatility enables us to create trainers that fuse timeless craftsmanship with a modern, expressive edge.
At 1812, our commitment to using the finest nubuck is part of a broader philosophy: to craft footwear where every material, every detail, and every decision is guided by quality, heritage, and a respect for the traditions of English shoemaking.
