BEFORE THE WAR, SPORT WAS NOT A MATTER OF SCIENCE. THE OLD PURSUITS WERE ALMOST ANCIENT RITUALS, HUNTING AMONG THEM, DRESSED IN STOUT THORNPROOF CLOTH THAT HID THE DIRT. SPORT ITSELF WAS A GENTEEL AFFAIR, PRACTISED LARGELY BY THE PRIVILEGED FEW, WHERE DRESS WAS A CODE OF CLASS AS MUCH AS ANYTHING WORN ANY OTHER DAY. MOSTLY IT WAS A RUGGED VERSION OF COUNTRY WEAR. CRICKET SWEATERS, FLANNELS, A STRIPED BOATING BLAZER. AND ON THE FOOT, THE BROGUE WAS DEEMED THE SPORTS SHOE OF CHOICE, WITH CHUNKY CLEATED SOLES FOR GRIP IN THE MUD, GIMPING AND AIR HOLES FOR BREATHABILITY. EVEN THE DECORATION BEGAN AS FUNCTION.
THE MATERIALS WERE SIMPLE AND THEY AGED WELL. THE DEEP RICH CORD OF THE FRENCH JACKETS IN OUR ARCHIVE. THE OCHRE YELLOW OF THE AMERICAN ONES. WHAT PASSED FOR TECHNICAL FABRIC IN THE EARLY DECADES OF THE TWENTIETH CENTURY WAS NO MORE COMPLEX THAN WAXED COTTON, AND THE PATINA IT TOOK ON OVER YEARS IS AS ALLURING AS WELL WORN DENIM OR BUTTER SOFT LEATHER. THEN CAME THE MACHINES. AVIATION AND MOTORCYCLING PIONEERS WENT TO TAILORS FOR CLOTHING CUT FOR MOVEMENT, PROTECTIVE WHERE IT WAS NEEDED, WITH POCKETS IN THE RIGHT PLACE.
EVEN THE BOLDEST FEATS WERE THE WORK OF GENTLEMEN AMATEURS. GEORGE MALLORY CLIMBED TOWARD EVEREST IN 1924 IN LITTLE MORE THAN LAYERS AND HEAVY TWEED. MANY OF THESE GARMENTS BECAME STANDARDS OF THE MALE WARDROBE, YET UNLIKE MILITARY OR WORKWEAR THEY KEPT A CERTAIN TIMELESS ELEGANCE, MADE PLAINLY FOR SPORT AND STILL AT HOME ANYWHERE TODAY. THIS IS THE ERA 1812 STUDIES. THESE ARE THE PIECES SHAPING OUR FIRST READY TO WEAR COLLECTION, IN DESIGN AND DEVELOPMENT NOW. MADE IN ENGLAND, CUT FOR THE BODY, ELEGANT BECAUSE IT WORKS. FUNCTION FIRST. ELEGANCE THAT LASTS.
